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KOOBOOK 1Pcs 1000W ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Board Module Flyback Driver Heater 12V-48V DIY
Original price was: $35.99.$25.19Current price is: $25.19.
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- Can only be used for small parts DIY players do hardening, annealing and other heat treatment.Also can be used with a graphite crucible melting gold, silver, copper, aluminum and other metals, uniform heating fast, very convenient.Not for industrial production.
- The higher the voltage, the greater the heating current when the same thing, the effect is better.But at the same time heat is also large, so to eradicate the actual situation to select the input voltage, the general use of the words 24V or 36V power supply is enough.
- The circuit board using double-sided fiberglass board, mainly copper traces are used to widen use the entire back surface of the resonant circuit common, continuous work, please add a fan to blow down from above, to the resonance capacitors and other components cool.Do not empty the board, otherwise it will create a very high noise, then MOS tube will burn out.
- The kit contains a full set of driving circuit elements and brass.Buyers need to bring their own power and cooling unit.Note: This module does not have reverse polarity protection, please make sure to connect the positive and negative poles correctly, otherwise there will be a risk of short circuit or burnout.
5 reviews for KOOBOOK 1Pcs 1000W ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Board Module Flyback Driver Heater 12V-48V DIY
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John M –
This little heater works just as it should.At first I thought I had a problem because I hooked up my power supply and nothing happened.The power supply needs to be powered, then connect it to the heater.A switch on the dc input would accomplish the same.
Ron B –
I hooked it up to the 12V rail of my converted ATX power supply. The LED on the Heating Board lit for about 5 seconds, and shut down the 12V rail. I hooked it into the 5V rail, and the LED lit for about 5 minutes, until the Amps reached 10. Then it shut down. So I plugged it directly onto a 12V battery. It lit for about three seconds before the resistor (IN4742) exploded and started a fire. (I blew out the flame, but about half the ceramics on the resistor are gone.) So far, the only thing that has heated at all are the two aluminum heat sinks. I admit to being a novice and I might have hooked up the power completely wrong… three times. Since there was zero documentation with the unit, I’m not really certain what I’ve done wrong. Any assistance you can provide to make it work, will result in my revising this review.
lee eiseman –
Without even getting warm in its large heat sink, It was able to get an iron object red hot within the included copper coil. Plus quick shipping
Kim M. –
I was able to successfully run it at 4 amps for a few minutes at 30 volts. after a while it started raising. I was heating up non ferrous metal and had a load in the coil. This did not surprise me. I then let it cool down. after waiting i decided to heat up a ferrous metal screw driver. As soon as the screw driver went in, my amp meter red 37 volts and the system was making loud noises. This is a small thin screw driver and should not over load the system by any means. it’s less than 1/3 the volume. It immediately melted the components. This system is bunk. These components are not rated for this. Don’t buy. Spend a few more $$$ on a system that works. Don’t buy from this guy.
Nick Biederman –
I bought one of these, and the first time I powered it on it immediately shorted my 1000w 36v power supply. I checked for obvious issues on the board and found a dead short across the inputs. I returned it for a replacement, and checked for continuity across the inputs before connecting to anything else. Once again there was a dead short across the inputs.