- 【Multiple Security Protection】Temperature protection: Heatsink temperature higher than 65 °C,enter protection.Undervoltage protection: Input voltage is less than 20V, enter protection.Power tube broken/short circuit,display MOS-XX.
- 【Detailed Specification】Copper tube coil 50mm,Input voltage DC 24V-70V, Max 2000W Power, Input current is greater than 40A,voltage greater than 55V,enter protection. Note : when copper pipe is connected to water pipe, it needs to be sealed to prevent water leakage. Please install the copper coil and pump, then turn on the power. (Can Not Empty Load)
- 【Precautions】Only iron can be heated directly,other metal materials need graphite crucible.
- 【100% Satisfaction Guarantee】The package does not include instructions for use, please use under the guidance of professionals, or contact customer service staff before purchase. If you have questions about the product or are not satisfied with it, please contact us at any time, we will provide you with a best solution. Your satisfaction is our main concern.
Bewinner 2000W High Voltage Induction Heater Module Flyback Driver Heating Board(US Plug 100-240V)
$75.05 Original price was: $75.05.$52.54Current price is: $52.54.
SKU: B07S3V14HS Categories: Building Supplies, Heaters & Heater Accessories, Hvac, Tools & Home Improvement
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6 reviews for Bewinner 2000W High Voltage Induction Heater Module Flyback Driver Heating Board(US Plug 100-240V)
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James –
*****DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE INDUCTION HEATING WITHOUT EQUIPPING THE WATER PUMP*****I give this product a 3.5-3.8 star rating, additionally the attempts made by the seller to resolve this issue would put this rating near 4.5 or so.Verification:Screen circuit: Circuit that powers the screen and updates board information does function as intended. Fan works but is slightly off balance producing noise.Induction circuit:The induction circuit works as expected, the moment you engage the switch you see the wattage climb and it attempts to draw as much power as possible to drive the heating. I used an iron welding rod as a test piece of metal for a quick run, within a few seconds I was able to smell the metal heating. Since I tested this while I was at work I only activated the circuit for about 15 seconds at 25 volts approximately 6 amps.Contents:1 induction pcb board assembled with fan.*Verified 70VDC max and 40 amps max the description is correct regardless of what the pictures say*1 12 volt dc power supply. (24-70V DC PS REQUIRED FOR HEATING. The included supply will not drive the heater)1 water pump.2 tubes for water pump.1 induction coil. (The tubes will not fit snugly on the coil adapters will be required.)4 screws with washers.My experience so far:The product arrived in a timely manner but the antistatic plastic was punctured by the device in transit. I had anticipated the included PS would have powered heating but it does not so I am waiting for a DC power supply to arrive that can so testing of heating and wattage not complete yet (will update with verification of functions once it does). I can verify the circuit that the 12 volt supply powers is working the screen lights up and displays information. The screen does not seem to display information in real time and refreshes periodically (screen goes blank for a second then displays updated info). The fan on top works but is a little off balance producing noise. The pcb is a mix of smd parts and pin throughs which appear to be hand soldered (there is nothing wrong with it being hand soldered and personally I like the fact that a person worked on it). One potential downside to the board is that it is heavy in the middle which due to the position of the heat sink and fan causes it to sag. This could reduce the lifetime of the board.After I received the device I had questions as there is no manual and I wanted to verify my suspicions that I had to purchase an additional PS. After a little back and forth I was able to piece together the answers to a few of my questions but an additional one regarding voltage/amperage was raised. If you look at the pcb and the pictures thatthe seller sent me you will see multiple discrepancies regarding both voltage and amperage which is why I asked for the schematics so I could calculated this myself definitely. I suspect there is a language barrier based upon our correspondence. I appreciate the effort that the seller put into trying to communicate with me though which is why I added an additional star to the rating. It is by no means easy to work around this kind of issue for the seller or buyer so the effort is certainly something to mention. It is my hope that with time he or she is able to understand and provide clearer feedback to us.UPDATE: After my sweet new power supplies arrived I was able to test the induction heating on the board. Although I have not been able to do a prolonged test I can verify that the heating works well indeed. As this was my first run with induction heating I was rather surprised at the speed it heated the iron rod up (I am aware that iron is a prime metal for this which is why I chose it and that other heating speeds will vary). The first run I tried my supply was set at 60 Volts and as low of amps as it can produce as possible. Interestingly enough the board reported it was trying to draw a very high amount of amps, and reached the 40 amp shut off. I lowered the volts and reset the amps to as low as possible and the second time I engaged the switch everything worked wonderfully (my power supplies are very new and I have not been able to do a lot of investigation on them yet). One thing that I did notice quite a bit was the rate that the coil heated up at. Even though the circuit was only engaged for a few seconds the coil was noticeably warmer than it was before. I was aware that the coil would heat up a bit but surprised by how much (I doubt this is a flaw on the makers part just par for the course of this kind of heating circuit). I am rather happy that I had only planned on doing a few seconds of heating as if I had continued to run the board I am sure that damage would have occurred. If you purchase one of these please please please do not attempt to use it without a proper cooling solution being employed.Main concerns:Lack of manual.Lack of schematic.Final thoughts:I looked at a number of different devices on here before I settled on this one. The main reason was I believed the power supply would power the whole device and the water pump for cooling was included and there was definitely a port to plug it into on the board. So far I believe this is a solid 3.5-3.9 star board. The seller has actively reached out to try to resolve issues which is appreciated which pushes my rating up to 4 stars and it will hold there if the heating works properly. See attached photos for a little more product device information.
Hershell B. –
Came mostly assembled and I was very impressed at how quickly it actually heats things up. Very cool and very useful
Joe Bennet –
After re-soldering one of the coils that had broken off during shipment, I finally managed to get it to work. But no matter what voltage setting I applied above 24 volts, it would not heat an item up beyond 200 F before shutting off, only to have to wait a little while before turning the unit back on. Then it would shut off again. Added to this, the cooling tubing was very poor quality, and the small tie wraps would not seal the water from spraying everywhere. Very small sealing clamps were needed. This was not well thought out. I would not recommend this product, and it’s going back.
Mearl –
When I assembled the induction heater per guessing (because there is NO instructions) I hooked up the heating circuit to 2 – 12VDC Deep Cycle batteries wired in parallel to produce the 24VDC minimum required. I hooked up the pump and water tank for the cooling. I then powered up the control circuit with the included power supply. The display came on and displayed the 27VDC of the heating circuit with the current being 0000W and to the right of that it says OFF. So I pressed the button to the right of the display and everything stays the same except in the lower right corner it says “MOS-XX”. From what I can find on the internet that means that a component on the circuit board is bad or defective. Upon contacting AMAZON (who is stocking and shipping this item) and explaining the issue they wanted pictures of the problem and said they would forward the pictures to the actual seller “Bewinner” so that they could help. I then get a message from “Bewinner” and they now want a “Clear Video” of what is going on. This is way to much of a headache and waist of time to deal with a defective product (as I’m certain they will eventually discover after wasting hours of my time). I will never purchase another “Bewinner” item!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I advise that you don’t waist your money! The customer service Sucks!
michelle metz –
can’t use without set up instructions Bought as a gift and plan to return it.
ghengis –
I bought this and did not realize that another power supply would be needed. Considering that there is no power supply it should be cheaper. I used a large battery charger, supplying roughly 48vdc and 30 amps although I cannot remember exactly, but I did have to change something originally to get the screen to show that no protections came on for over voltage. I could not get any current flowing but maybe that is aa issue with the battery charger. It probably has a safety setting. I found a YouTube video that told me where to get a cell tower power supply(not for the whole tower, that is just where they are used) for $35, but evidently word got out because the same power supplies are now $200 which is stupid because they require some conversion, however I can buy one that doesn’t require any conversion for that price. Stupid. The seller bent over backwards trying to help me, but it didn’t take long for me to figure out that he doesn’t understand nuances of the English. If you speak to him, use single sentences and keep it simple. He sent me diagrams in Chinese that ended up being the most helpful of all. Be prepared to have to build out but the power supply, and you will probably need to do some manipulation, like mounting everything down to a board, making a water reservoir (bigger is better to allow water to absorb heat), and you will need a ceramic tile to place under the coil to hold a crucible or to catch anything that is hot. Any info on how anyone overcame any issues with this would be appreciated. I will amend this as I learn. If I get it working I will up the rating. It is not plug and play!